Chris Hegedes and D.A. Pennebaker's latest, seemingly effortless masterwork begins as an easy-paced chronicle of one man's preparations for a grueling, three-day pastry showdown. The hoped-for award: a medal and the right to wear a tricolor collar on your chef's coat, distinguishing you as Meilleur Ouvrier de France (Best Craftsman in France). The film is immediately inviting for the ease with which chef Jacquy Pfeiffer lets the camera examine his efforts, family life, and passion, but the real surprise here comes when the simple foodie story turns into a vigorous and emotionally captivating competition tale. Three featured chefs—Pfeiffer, Philippe Rigollot, and Regis Lazard—from a field of 16 finalists create artful sculptures in chocolate, cake, candy ribbon, and sugar in front of a cadre of MOF judges, whose variously wizened, experienced, and clever faces are as evocative a tableau as anything in Pennebaker's back catalogue. The film aptly dictates at least one parallel to Olympic competition: Be good on the day of the trial or forget getting an award around your neck.

On the surface, Kings of Pastry can seem like an underwhelming step for a filmmaking team that delved inside the Clinton campaign in The War Room. The documentary field is occasionally deemed film's last respite for cutting-edge political or social commentary; the Full Frame Documentary Film Festival, where Kings of Pastry premiered as the opening night selection Thursday night, is bursting with war photography, political investigations, top-flight jazz and art examinations, and environmental messaging. A pastry competition may be comparatively small subject matter. Some of the drama of the latter part of the movie is familiar from many a Food Network program, such as the high-pitched tension that comes when a chef tries to carry his atmosphere-scraping sugar centerpiece from one table to another. Even the style is beholden to documentary techniques—handheld video, obtrusive titles, and taking-head interviews—they've avoided to groundbreaking effect in Don't Look Back. Continue Reading »